I neglected to mention that Gary slummed it with us last night and stayed in a bunk bed! Not only did he stay in a bunk bed, but he slept in the top bunk which, I have to say, is not an easy thing to do, especially when you’re the age we are. I had to stay in a few top bunks on the Camino Frances and if I never do it again it will be too soon. So thank you Gary! You are both a gentleman and a scholar!

We left around 7:30 and made the long hike out of Berducedo up to A Mesa. We got our cafe con leche and a bite to eat (tortilla for Kristen, a croissant for Gary and bocadillo con jamón for yours truly) and a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice for all of us. I downed mine before she could even pour Kristen and Gary’s, much to the surprise of the woman at the cafe counter. Someday I plan to learn how to eat (and drink) mindfully. I hardly taste my food which usually requires seconds just so I can actually experience what I’m eating. It’s a curse I tell you, learned from years of eating with two growing boys but they’ve been gone for quite some time now and it’s high time I stop using them as an excuse. Note to self. Now’s the time. You’re not getting any younger.

Whoever said that going downhill is easier than going uphill has not walked to Grandas de Salime. Descents are deceiving. After all the climbing you look enthusiastically at the downhill. At least it’s not uphill, right? But the reality is that for every downhill there’s an eventual uphill. The path down was rocky and steep and went on for a long time so it was only a matter of time before - But before we go there…

This downhill was the downhill of all downhills. It went and went and went. Through fire scorched earth and along rocky terrain. Along the sides of mountains, through pea soup fog and in the bright sunlight. Way down below was a magnificent river that got closer and closer as we continued to descend. Along the way we met up with Pedro and Paola from Portugal and Julia from Argentina. Like me, Julia was sick and walking slowly. She was a gorgeous young woman with stylishly cut dark hair and a sultry voice. Julia was walking the Primitivo while her girlfriend was on the Portugues route. They would meet up again in Santiago. Prior to beginning their walks they’d sold all of their belongings to begin a year of travel. First to Germany and then who knew where. It all sounded very exciting.

At the bottom of the long descent was an enormous damn with another statue of the Virgin Mary (the Spaniards sure like their Virgin Marys) and we tucked into an alcove to take a look from above the dam. It was here that we met the Czech couple whose names I can never remember with whom we shared some chocolate and mandarins. By the time we reached the dam, my feet were throbbing. After the long climb down we all needed a rest. so we decided to stop for lunch. On the other side of the dam was a wonderful albergue with a restaurant, just the place for a much needed break. The food was incredible. A rich fish soup and some grilled merluza was followed by a decadent chocolate cake. Although I couldn’t finish it, nevertheless I couldn’t stop thinking about for the rest of the walk. And of course, Kaz Limón. There was always Kaz Limón.

There’s an ample bit of coaxing that happens once you finally stand up again. You have to work to get your feet moving again because let me tell you, when you stop, even for a rest, your feet don’t want to start walking again. For the first few meters you slog on in a clumsy manner while every step hurts until finally you warm up and get moving until it’s time to stop for good.

From the damn the road turned upward and there was a steady climb to Grandas de Salime. We made it just as the rain began to fall. Gary and I stayed in a great albergue, sharing a room with a woman who was walking a “pet camino” (I didn’t know there were “pet caminos either). She told us she was walking to honor the memory of her dog who’d died a year before. She was very sweet, albeit teary as she told us of the loss of her pet. She took pity on me after listening to me wheeze and hack and offered me some medicine that she promised would make me feel better. I accepted. Anything to get a good night’s sleep.